Snow Day

At the beginning of the day, the sun was shining and the temp was just a little below zero enough to make me think, "What a perfect day to take the kids and Tashi to Namsan for a bit of a walk."  We got dressed, packed our stuff, got in the car, and then...the skies quickly darkened and snow started to fall, and fall, and fall.  We decided to forge ahead--how much could it possibly snow, after all?  Our first stop was a McDonald's that is connected to a gas station. While this is a familiar site on America's highways, it is super freaky in Korea.  This is the first time, ever, I've seen a McDonald's, or any fast food chain for that matter, joined with a gas station.  We decided to try it out.  There, I discovered that McDonald's has imported the quarter pounder with cheese and the double quarter pounder with cheese.  This is also freaky since Koreans don't do things in pounds but in kilograms.  Still, I was happy to see my favorite burger on the menu.  The McDonald's, although joined to a gas station, was the nicest, cleanest McDonald's I've ever been in Korea (they're usually pretty nasty), plus it had this really big front window through which we could see the snow fall and accumulate.  It felt as if we were inside a giant snow globe.

Once we had our meal, we went through the drive-through (another new thing here in Korea--not all McD's have them, but we're starting to see more drive-through's), got some icecream and sundaes, and headed to Namsan to go through with our original plan, which included a trip to a sauna and spa. 

So much snow had already fallen at Namsan that, when we got out of the car, Tashi was like "I'm sorry, but if you seriously think I'm going to walk in this as if it weren't freaking cold and uncomfortable you've got another think coming."  So, that didn't last long. After the quick across-town pit stop, we headed to Itaewon Land, a sauna and spa for which we can get discount tickets online.  We had to go since Jack had already bought the tickets, so we laid out blankies and chew toys for Tashi and went into the spa for some sauna time and a bath. 

I like Itaewon Land  (the front of which you can see to the right) since they are used to non-Koreans. It is located in Itaewon, which is near a military base and the sight of 'foreigners' is not so unusual.  People tend to stare less in Itaewon and people don't pay so much attention to us here like they do other places.  Still, I have one complaint:  why the heck are the fountains in the women's bath shaped like giant penuses?  Seriously people, that is just gross.  I really don't want to sit in a tub with water spouting out from a giant faux urethra.  This is the second time Dahin and I had bathed there, and I thought she hadn't paid attention to that so was not that concerned beyond the gross factor.  But, out of curiosity, I asked Jack, "In the men's bath, are the fountain's shaped like penuses?"  He said that no, they were shaped like frogs.  And I said, "I just wish they had some other kind of fountains in the women's bath; the giant phallic structures there just make it feel like a brothel."  And Dahin said, "Oh, I KNOW."  And shook her head.  Little pitchers.  Oh well, so she had noticed.  Certainly, this little aspect of Itaewon land exposes the Itaewon neighborhood's old school rep as a seedy spot, a rep that has improved dramatically over the years, but little traces remain here and there.

Once we were done with our penus-fountain baths (well, just speaking for Dahin and me), we headed to the car and took Tashi to the park for a bit of a run and potty break.  Namsan Park has many different sections, and this one I like because it has some pretty walking paths located at the foot of the hill on which Dongguk University sits. BTW, Oliver's glasses, above, are fake--no lenses. He just thinks they're cool so likes to wear them.

Tashi was still not super-happy to be out in the snow, and this walk occured before Tashi discovered it was fun to walk with us and that he should, indeed, follow us (an epiphany that happened this weekend).  Still it was nice to be out in this park and Tashi got some energy out. The park was just gorgeous with the snow on the buildings and trees. The lights of the city in the background lended a festive atmosphere to the park.

The photos below are from our second trip to the park. On our first trip to the park after the spa visit, Dahin had taken her glasses off in the car since they had fogged up. When had she opened the door to go to the park they had fallen to the ground. We didn't notice this until we had left the park and finished eating dinner when Dahin said, "Oh my gosh, where are my glasses?" Beforing killing our eldest child for losing her glasses, a brief interrogation revealed that the glasses had most likely fallen out of the car since Dahin had placed them in the pocket of the car door.  We decided to head back to the park to see if we could find them since we had guessed they could have fallen where we parked. When we got there, an initial inspection revealed nothing, but Dahin kept looking up the curb a bit and, voila, "I found them!" Redeemed.

Next, we headed to Taegukdang for some dessert (we'd eaten dinner after the park visit).  Taegukdang is located near Namsan park, across from Dongguk University, and has been around since 1946 (one year after liberation from Japan and four years before the start of the Korean War).  I believe it is, arguably, one of the oldest continuously-running businesses in Seoul.  It is very unusual to find a building, let alone a business, that survived the Korean War since Seoul was devastated.  Jack and his mom have memories of this place and many of the pastries, cakes, breads, and especially the ice cream treats have not changed much since it was established.  The inside of Taegukdang was super cool with giant reliefs (like one huge one featuring General Yi Sun-sin's famous turtle boat battle), murals,  and chandeliers, but they said I couldn't take pictures inside (except of the kids).  That's a shame since there was so much cool stuff to see that Jack said reflects kind of an old mid-20th century Korean decor that you just can't see anymore (even the bathroom which Jack said takes him back to 1970s Seoul).  It was like going into an antiques store. So, I tried to capture bits of the decor while taking some family shots.  I'm not sure why the no photo rule, but it might have something to do with the current food blogging craze in Korea and competition.  Anyway, I saw a fabulous cake and told Jack I wanted that cake for my birthday. It was loaded with walnuts, fruit, and almonds and looked so incredibly yummy I bet it is worth the 30,000 won ($30) they charge for it. Cakes in Korea ain't cheap so it is way more affordable to make your own; plus homemade American-style cakes tend to taste better than the wierd Korean spongy cakes (Dahin refuses to eat them).  30,000 is actually a good price for the size of that cake, which was pretty large, and it looked so tasty that I just have to try it.

The kids had cupcakes (which were not spongy and, therefore, surprisingly good--even Dahin loved it and she is the harshest critic of Korean-made pastries and desserts) and Jack and I had icecream.  Then, we got more ice cream for Ronan and Oliver who just had to try this Taegukdang specialty, which is icecream sandwiched between two pieces of  styrofoam-like stuff that snacks tend to be made of here.  It is made from rice, that much I know, but totally tasteless and bland and, I swear, like eating styrofoam.  Still, as part of an icecream sandwich, a treat called "Monika", it works. Above, Jack eats rice cake surrounding ice cream, and, below, Oliver eats the 'Monika" treat.  Jack's been eating this ice cream snack ("Monika") since he was a kid.  Yummy!  He has memories of walking here as a kid and buying icecream; still very affordable (just a few cents). 

In back of the bakery/snackery is this bar-like structure with chairs that looks a lot like a soda fountain. I didn't ask, but I'm pretty sure this place once had an active soda fountain spot where people sat, socialized, and ordered colas, etc back in the day. Besides the snacks. we bought a loaf of wheat bread which was very good. Hope to visit again soon.

Ronan's Wii Technique

Ronan is quite the master of the Wii and he has developed very specific techniques for each game.  For example, for the tennis skills test, he uses a technique he calls "goollie, goollie" (which I think is inspired by his favorite cartoon character Jjanggu) which entails shaking the control back and forth rapidly so you don't miss hitting the tennis ball.  Amazingly, it works.  For bowling, he has a very special technique that, as well, works great.  He taught me, and, although I don't jump up dramatically like Ronan, his technique helped up my score dramatically.  Seriously.  The point of it is to try to get the ball rolling with as much force as possible.  The simple version of Ronan's technique is to swing your arm up and over your back and then when your arm reaches around to the front you release the ball and, bingo, you can totally knock down the pins more effectively that way.  He is the Wii Master, as the photo evidence below reveals.

Our Fabulous Dog and His Cousins

I posted the story about the dog in Argentina the other day because it was such an amazing story.  Ok, I know it's almost two years old now, but an amazing story nonetheless.  In our quest to discover Tashi's true ancestry (the owners of the store could not verify) we've taken to some detective work.  When we walk him around (I mean, drag as he sits on his butt and refuses to move only to come inside and run around like a bat out of hell), people will say, "Oh wow, a Jindo dog."  But, he's not.  Jack has just given in and tells people he is a Jindo dog, and if you look at pictures on the web of Jindo dogs, he doesn't look all that different from the fawn variety.  However, we are sure that he is at least related to the kind of dog known as Jeju dog. Like Jindo, Jeju is a small island off the coast of Korea. 

Below, I detail the dogs indigenous to Korea.  Only the Jindo is widely known, and a couple of them have been near extinction at some point in time due to war and poverty.

The first of these is the Sasparee, perhaps the coolest dog in Korea.  I love this dog and, if we stay here indefinitely and feel confident about getting another and also have a house with a yard (this is a big dog) I would love to have one in our family.  These dogs have a long history in Korea.  They are known to be gentle and people believe they help ward off evil spirits.  A television show here in which shamans explore abandoned or haunted buildings feature a Sasparee as the "spirit dog." More information on this beautiful dog can be found here:
http://media.daum.net/foreign/englishnews/view.html?cateid=1047&newsid=20101118191814937&p=koreaherald
Apparently, during the Japanese occupation (1910-1945), Japanese soldiers killed these dogs and used their fur to make coats.  The result was the near-eradication of these beautiful, gentle dogs.  A Korean geneticist has almost single-handedly brought the Sasparee back from extinction.  You can adopt a Sasparee from only one official breeder in Korea.

The next is the Jindo dog.  This dog has a very distinctive, muscular body with a bushy tail that curves over the body.  The head is large with a very distinctive shape.  The Jindo is a medium-sized, double-coated spitz-type dog. . Identifying the Jindo from mixes and other breeds is often done by close examination of head features. The forhead on the Jindo tends to be rounded and without wrinkles.  The Jindo dog's appearance gives the impression of intelligence, strength, and agility. They are known to be good hunters as well as known for their extreme loyalty and devotion to their owners.  I read a story about an 83 year-old woman who, in 1993, sold her Jindo dog to someone in the city of Daejeon, almost two-hundred miles away on the mainland. The dog escaped her new home and returned to her original owner after seven months, thoroughly exhausted from her travels. Touched by Baekgu's loyalty, the woman kept her until Baekgu died of natural causes seven years later. Baegku's story has been told through cartoons, a TV documentary, and a children's storybook. Jindo County erected a statue to Baekgu in 2004 to honor her for her loyalty.

 

The pul gae (or fire dog) is probably given this name because of its distinctive reddish color.  The dog's coat and eyes and nose all have a similar tint, giving the dog a unique look.  The dog, compared to other Korean breeds, is most wolf-like in appearance.

 

The Jeju dog is similar in shape to the Jindo dog, especially in the body and head, but it is shorter in stature and the tail has a less-pronounced bushy look and is straighter and more upward-pointing than that of the Jindo. They have tawny brown hair. Like the Jindo, they have muscular bodies and powerful hind legs.  Because of their speed, they make ideal hunting companions. They have been known to hunt pheasant, deer, and badgers. They make loyal guard dogs, but when ordered to attack prey they are known to become aggressive (no kidding). Some people have guessed that Jeju dogs originated in China, moved down the Peninsula, and came to Jeju island some 3,000 years ago. It is unclear who brought the animals to the island and why.  The Jeju dog  eventually became used as a military dog, but when the Jeju dog was no longer used actively in military service (say, after the Korean War--I also blame extreme poverty), people used the Jeju dog as a food source so the dogs dwindled down to near extinction, with only three found on the entire island of Jeju in 1986.  Since then, an aggressive campaign of breeding has yielded a current population of close to three hundred. Yet, ‘pure bread’ Jeju dogs were estimated at around 70 as of September 2010. In 2010 people working in animal husbandry requested the Jeju dog be designated as a national treasure like the Jindo dog (which is why you don't find too many Jindo dogs abroad since, as a 'national treasure,' it is almost impossible to export the dog without doing it illegally) in order to protect the breed. Well, "breed" here is used  loosely as I don't think, until recently, people intentionally bred Jeju dogs at all.  The island is small and relatively isolated, which, I think, resulted in consistent traits for the dogs living on that island. Some sources even list the Jeju as a mixed breed or mutt, but those arguing for national treasure designation obviously think otherwise. Of course, how many years of breeding within a certain population makes a particular breed?  If over hundreds of years, or even decades, I can agree with the official breed designation, even if not intentional (well, until now, that is). Tashi looks like a Jeju dog, even if he's 'faux.'

The primary incentive for figuring out Tashi's ancestry is to make sure there are no genetic problems or issues we need to head off at the pass. It also helps us get a better idea about his disposition as this will aid us in training (although we already knew he was aggressive [and stubborn, but not sure if that is a 'breed' trait but rather Tashi's special little personality]--but hey, he's smart). It's fun to think he's a Jeju dog, but none of it really matters beyond the fact that he is a great little dog.  Tashi's working hard at his training.  We're still having "it's my way or the highway" issues, but he's getting a lot better at focusing and paying attention outside.  Now, if we can just get him to walk with us in the direction we want to go in.... Thinking we may call the trainer because it will be totally worth it for a one-on-one session. We love Tashi!

Snow, snow, snow

These pics are from a sledding day BEFORE the big snow that dumped a few inches on us this weekend.  With their new sleds, the kids are such chickens.  Dahin digs her heels in and drags her hands along the snow to slow herself down, and Oliver and Ronan insisted on the baby bunny slope (I dare to call it a bunny slope).  Tashi tried to engage in the fun, but body blocks on a slowly descending sled just don't work too well. Poor guy--he wanted the full throttle, knock-you-down body slam.  He has no fear.

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Tashi Gets Snipped

Tashi was a trooper before, during, and after his surgery.  I think the hardest part for him is having to wear the cone of shame until next Monday.  He hates the cone of shame.  After his surgery, he was pretty woozy and slept all afternoon and throughout most of the evening.  Poor guy was not feeling well.  I stayed with him that day and just 'worked'  from home.  Well--I worked at watching tv.  Don't blame me--programming that day was just too good.  CSI was great, and I couldn't miss Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix.  Plus, Tashi needed a buddy, and he prefers to keep his bed in the living room. His follow-up vet visit today  was a good one.  He has to take meds this week, but by next week he should be back to his old self (well, with fewer parts and, hopefully, a weaker labido).

Thanks Bubbie and Grandfather!!!

Bubbie and Grandfather sent us packages that included some cool American Christmas candy.  Since the commercial side of Christmas here is limited to strange Christmas cakes and free hat or scarf give-a-ways (with the purchase of a strange Christmas cake), I have to import things like candy canes, etc.  Santa has been super cool over the past two years, bringing the kids candy canes so mommy does not have to stress about that.  But we're also missing the lifesavers story books, chocolate santas, marshmallow peeps, and other amazing American goodies that I remember from my childhood (and, okay, adulthood).  Thanks to Grandfather and Bubbie, the kids got a great taste of home (that is still being rationed out daily).  I also got tons of yarn, and we also got a harmonica and tin whistle to boot!  Can't wait to get the kids started with those.  I also got some yeast so I can make those wonderful rolls I failed to make for Christmas.  Tashi totally scored with boatloads of treats, chew bones, and new toys.   The toys and treats are also being rationed, but Tashi has already claimed a few--including the green quadrapus (four legs) toy he runs around with regularly.  I am really happy with the toys,  Tashi likes soft toys and good ones are not easy to find in Korea.  Most toys are made for toy or miniature dogs and so aren't very sturdy. Plus, the standards for safety are not the same here as in the States.  I feel better knowing that these toys from Grandfather and Bubbie had to pass strict standards for sale in the US (no lead paint poisoning for our little buddy). The photos below also give me a chance to show off Tashi's new outfits.  Yes, we did (he-he-he).  Tashi also got a superman costume, but we're saving that one for Halloween.  He seems to like the clothes; makes him that much warmer when he goes outside.  Great deal in Namdaemun--only 8,000 won per outfit (about $8)!  And, a great way for Dahin to spend some of her allowance.  Okay, not really, but she was into it.  Do not, I repeat, do not buy dog accessories in front of Shinsegae Department store or anywhere in Myeongdong.  They totally rip you off (dog booties for 25,000 won?  Please, people!).  Namdaemun is just right next to Myeongdong and the prices are so much more reasonable.

 Above, Tashi says, "You're going to do WHAT with my little boy parts?"  Two days before the surgery.

See Bubbie--his quadrapus buddy matches his new hoodie sweatshirt.  Go green!  Thanks Grandfather and Bubbie!  The care packages are very much appreciated.

Snow Fun!

Dahin had her friend Jiyeon over for a playdate and Jihyeon's little brother came along.  He's one year older than the boys, so it was perfect.  The kids played together really well.  When they tired of the Wii inside,  I had them go outside to play.  The kids raided the recycling bin for some 'sleds' and threw snowballs at each other.  Tashi also got into the fun and really loved chasing after the kids as they sledded down the hill.  He did not, however, like being pelted with snowballs, so I had to put an end to that.  Since this weekend, we've had two more snowfalls, including one last night that left a few inches of powdery snow on the ground.  It's beautiful, but Tashi's having a hard time with it since the "cone of shame" he has to wear because of his surgery to remove his little boy parts (pics later) works like a snow plow as he makes his way through the snow.  No fun for little Tashi.  I have to remove the ring of snow from around his neck when we go inside after trips out. Still, love the snow.  And, we've finally bought the kids some real sleds--two plastic beauties just waiting for some more snow fun this coming weekend.

New Year's Resolutions

Like the rest of us, the boys have sworn to be extra helpful and proactive in the New Year.  Our breakfast theme was, uh, simple.  The boys made toast and poured orange juice.  Of course, they needed help toasting the bread, getting plates for the bread, getting out the butter and jam, opening the jam, getting out the orange juice, opening the juice, getting cups for the juice, and pouring the juice.  Not sure how much of that actually counted as breakfast "service."  Still, I give Oliver extra bonus points for washing most of the dishes.

Happy New Year!

After our day of sunrise-viewing and traveling on New Year's Eve, everyone crashed early when we headed home, except for Dahin and I who stayed up to watch the movie we had rented, Super Bad (the Korean title for Despicable Me--at first I thought these were two different movies; I get easily confused). But, right before midnight, I was out like a light and left poor Dahin a little disappointed since she had wanted to usher in the New Year big girl style.  On New Year's Day morning, we started the New Year out right with some homemade pancakes and milk.  Tashi, below, tries really hard to be a good boy (his resolution).

Then, it was off to Halmoni's house where Tashi slid a bit on his resolution by trying to pounce on Halmoni's teacup maltese, Bomi, as if she were a chew toy and accidently biting Halmoni when she tried to pull a plastic bottle out of his mouth (we were horrified that he drew blood, but Halmoni was very sweet about it).  We won't mention the peeing on the floor since that was, honestly, our fault and he didn't know where to 'go' at Halmoni's house.  I blame much of it on the long car drive and pent up energy from the day before.

Next, we welcomed in the New Year with halmoni at her church and headed to Shinsegae Dept. Store for lunch and a look around.  The kids love the roof-top garden there, so enjoyed their dessert of ice cream and strawberry smoothie outside while the grownups were more sensible and had coffee indoors.

Then, it was off to the salon for haircuts for all three kids.  Oliver, with his straggly locks, was the most in need, but it felt right to start the new year off with some clean, nice hair for all three.

 Dahin enjoys games on her phone and some hot cocoa while she waits for her brothers to finish up.

Ronan got the phone once it was Dahin's turn.  Below, Dahin gets a cute bob cut with shorter bangs, and Oliver gets all waxed up as he surveys the work of the stylist. 

Our New Year was relatively mellow, but not devoid of reflections and plans to do even better this year.  Happy New Year!!!